Hair Color Developers

This week on my Facebook page I've been teaching all about developers.
Most of you already know what developers do but some of you may need additional help.
Developers come in various strengths, usually 10, 20, 30 and 40 volumes.
Also known as 3%, 6%, 9% and 12%.
With 10 volume and 3% providing maximum deposit with little to no lift, and 40 volume providing maximum lift with little to no deposit.
For the remainder of this post I will talk about how to be cost effective with developers and in my next post I will go into more detail on how each volume works.
That 40 volume is the only volume you'll ever need to buy? Why? Because you can break-it-down or 'cut' it to be any volume.
What do you cut it with, 0-volume? I thought we were being cost effective?
What? You thought 0-volume was for even more deposit? NO, 0-volume is specially made to dilute developers. BUT we are being cost effective so we won't purchase anything other than the 40 volume developer.
Did you know that if you combined 40 volume developer with an equal amount of DISTILLED WATER you will make 20 volume? How cost effective is that?

Let's say you need 4ozs of developer to mix with your color formula and all you had was 40 volume in your dispensary, this is what you will need to do to make the volume you need:
1oz 40vol + 3oz distilled water = 4oz 10 volume developer
2oz 40vol + 2oz distilled water = 4oz 20 volume developer
3oz 40vol + 1oz distilled water = 4oz 30 volume developer

If 4 ounces is too much, try measuring in grams. I like to use 20 grams as a standard.

5gr 40vol + 15gr distilled water = 20 gr. 10 volume developer
10gr 40vol + 10gr distilled water = 20 gr. 20 volume developer
15gr 40vol + 5gr distilled water = 20 gr. 30 volume developer

Be the knowledgeable stylist. While others will panic when they realize they don't have their desired developer on hand, you will be able to break down your developers with ease.
Just so you'll know, equal portions of 20 volume and distilled water makes 10 volume. You can even create a 5 volume from 20.
Be creative, and know your stuff!


Elle. said…
This is very helpful. Thank you for this!
Denise Palucki said…
Thanks so much for this post!
Your awesome I knew you could do this just needed to see someone post it!
Your awesome I knew you could do this just needed to see someone post it!
Unknown said…
Is the new volume of peroxide stable like the original 40 volume?
Teresa said…
Will this formula still cover Grey stubborn hair the same as if it was a bottle of 10vol or 20vol ?
Thank you
Monica Kapushy said…
Wonderful! This really help me, I'm a DIY mom and it's been years since I took color classes. Thank you!

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